1999 GUIGAL La Landonne 1999

(06-2003) I have given perfect scores to other vintages of La Landonne, but the blackpurple-colored 1999 Cote Rotie La Landonne may be the finest effort Guigal has ever coaxed out of this vineyard. It appears less animalistic than usual, offering gorgeously pure notes of incense, melted road tar, fried bacon, blackberries, blueberries, smoked meats, and vanilla. Literally out of this world in terms of flavor concentration and balance, the finish lasts well over 60 seconds. What is so remarkable about this cuvee is its tremendous layers of flavor, awesome texture, and perfect balance. This is an astonishing offering from one of the world’s greatest winemakers.

(2008) Dark and still a touch tight, with a wall of bacony, mesquite-tinged toast holding the core of blackberry and fig fruit at bay. Lush, exotic fruit pushes through on the finish, with notes of musk, aged tobacco, roasted vanilla and hoisin sauce. The dark, toasty finish still needs more time to unwind fully. There's no Viognier, and, except for the 2002 vintage, this is never destemmed.